Driving an RV for the First Time: Height, Weight, Mirrors, Turns and Arriving at Camp

Driving an RV is more like driving a box truck than a car. You're taller, longer, wider and much heavier, so you stop later, turn wider, and need to think about clearances a car driver never notices. None of that is hard once you know it. The goal on day one is to drive slowly, leave lots of space, and avoid tight spots until you've got a feel for the rig.

Before you move: learn your numbers

Every clearance decision you make on the road depends on three numbers. Get them from the listing, the owner's manual, the host, or a tape measure, and write them on a note stuck to the dash.

• Height, including roof air conditioners, vents, antennas and anything on a roof rack. This is the number that matters at gas station canopies, drive-throughs, parking garages and low bridges.
• Length, bumper to bumper, plus a bike rack or towed vehicle if you have one. Campgrounds set length limits, and some are strict. Joshua Tree National Park, for example, caps RVs at 25 feet combined length at Hidden Valley and White Tank campgrounds.
• Weight, both the GVWR (the maximum loaded weight the vehicle is rated for) and roughly what you're carrying. Weight-limited bridges and some roads post limits, and heavier rigs need more room to stop.

To give you a sense of scale, Thor Motor Coach lists its Four Winds Class C floor plans at 11,500 to 14,500 pounds GVWR and its gas Hurricane Class A plans at 18,000 to 24,000 pounds. Even a Tellaro camper van is rated at 9,350 pounds. Compare that with the car you drive every day.

The walkaround and setup

Spend 10 minutes before the first drive and every morning after. It catches most of the problems that cause expensive mistakes.

1. Walk all the way around. Check that slide-outs are fully in, the awning is stowed and locked, steps are retracted, and every compartment door is latched.
2. Look up. Make sure roof vents and antennas are down.
3. Look down. Check tires for obvious damage or low pressure, and confirm power cords, water hoses and the sewer hose are disconnected and stowed. Our RV tire safety guide covers pressure and TPMS.
4. Secure the inside. Latch cabinets and the fridge, put loose items in bins, and close the shower door. Anything not secured will end up on the floor.
5. Set your seat and mirrors before starting the engine.

Mirrors: your new rear window

In a Class C or Class A you usually have no useful rearview mirror. Your side mirrors are everything. Many motorhomes have a flat upper mirror and a convex lower mirror on each side, and many have a rear camera.

• Flat mirror: adjust so you see a sliver of the side of the RV at the inner edge and the lane beside you.
• Convex mirror: adjust to cover the blind spot beside and just behind the cab. Objects in it look farther away than they are.
• Rear camera: use it for backing and checking what's behind you, but don't trust it alone for depth.

Check your mirrors every few seconds, and especially before every lane change. Signal early and change lanes slowly so anyone in your blind spot has time to react.

Braking and following distance

Weight is the reason RVs feel different. A heavier vehicle carries more momentum, so it takes longer to slow down and longer to stop from the same speed. You also can't swerve the way a car can, because a tall vehicle is more prone to sway and tipping in sharp maneuvers.

• Leave a big gap. Much more following distance than you'd leave in a car. If someone cuts into the gap, back off again.
• Brake early and gently. Start slowing well before exits, lights and turns.
• Slow down for curves before you enter them. A tall rig leans more than a car.
• Use lower gears on long downhills. Riding the brakes on a long grade can overheat them. Use the transmission's tow/haul mode or a lower gear if your RV has one, and check the owner's manual for how it works.
• Drive slower than you think you need to. Lower speed gives you more time and more stopping room. It also cuts fuel use.

Turning and tail swing

Two things happen in turns that surprise new RV drivers.

Off-tracking: the rear wheels cut inside

On a long wheelbase, the rear wheels follow a tighter path than the front wheels. If you turn the way you would in a car, the back wheels can clip a curb, a sign post or a pump island on the inside of the turn. The fix is to pull farther forward into the intersection before you start turning, then turn more sharply.

Tail swing: the back end goes the other way

Everything behind the rear axle swings outward, opposite the direction you're turning. The longer the overhang behind the rear wheels, the farther it swings, and on a long motorhome it's more than most car drivers expect. It's the classic way RVs hit gas pumps, poles and parked cars when pulling out of a tight spot.

• Before a sharp turn out of a parking space or fuel lane, check the mirror on the side opposite your turn.
• Make sure there's clear space beside your rear corner, not just in front of you.
• Turn slowly enough that you can stop if the tail gets close to something.

Fuel stops

Gas stations are one of the trickiest places for a new RV driver: canopies, tight lanes, curbs and pumps everywhere.

• Check the canopy height against your RV's height. If there's no posted clearance and you're unsure, don't pull under it.
• Pick truck stops or stations with an outer lane or a dedicated RV or truck island when you can.
• Plan your exit before you pull in. Make sure you can drive straight out the other side without backing up.
• Don't let the tank run low. Fill up when you have a good station, not when the light comes on in the middle of nowhere.
• Know your fuel type. Many motorhomes are gas, but some are diesel. Check the fuel door or ask the host.

Wind, weather and road choice

A tall, flat-sided RV catches crosswinds. On an open highway, gusts and passing trucks can push you sideways. Slow down, keep both hands on the wheel, and don't overcorrect. If the forecast calls for strong winds, consider waiting. Our severe weather plan for RV camping covers when to stay put.

Choose your route for the rig, not for speed. Car-focused GPS apps don't know your height or weight, so they can send you under low bridges or down narrow roads. Use an RV-specific route setting if your app has one, and check the route yourself before you go.

Arriving at the campground

1. Arrive in daylight. Backing into an unfamiliar site in the dark is harder. Many campgrounds also have check-in windows: Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, for instance, lists a 2:00 p.m. check-in. If you'll be late, see our guide to arriving at an RV park after dark.
2. Drive slowly through the loop and look at your site before you pull in. Check for low branches, posts, picnic tables and the hookup locations.
3. Use a spotter. Agree on hand signals or use phones on speaker. The spotter should stay where you can see them in a mirror. If you lose sight of them, stop.
4. Back in slowly, and stop to check often. Small steering inputs make big changes at the rear.
5. Level and stabilize before extending slides. Our leveling blocks guide walks through it.
6. Hook up in order: power with a surge protector, then water through a pressure regulator, then sewer if you have it. See our first RV park checklist.

A first-day driving plan

• Practice in an empty lot for 20 minutes: turns, tail swing near a cone or empty bottle, and backing between two markers.
• Keep the first day short. Book your first night a couple of hours away, not at the far end of the trip.
• Avoid cities and rush hour on day one if you can.
• Take breaks. Driving a large vehicle is more tiring than driving a car.
• Ask the host for a demo drive if you're renting. RVezy suggests allowing about an hour for the departure inspection, which is a good time to ask questions about the rig.